The present invention relates to a product for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, in particular, human eyelashes and hair, comprising a polyurethane. The invention also relates to a process for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers. The make-up product and process, according to the invention are more particularly intended for essentially longilinear keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair, including false eyelashes and wigs. The product of the invention can be a make-up product, a make-up base, a composition to be applied on or over make-up, named a topcoat, or a cosmetic treatment product for keratin fibers. The invention relates more particularly to a mascara.
Mascaras are commonly prepared as wax-based formulations according to two types: aqueous mascaras, known as cream mascaras, in the form of an emulsion of waxes in water; and anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in solvents.
However, the film of make-up obtained with the inventive composition applied to eyelashes has a tendency to crumble over time; grains become deposited and leave marks around the eyes. Furthermore, the film thus embrittled is not resistant to rubbing, in particular, by the fingers, and/or to water, for example, when bathing or taking a shower. The make-up is thus not resistant and has poor staying power over time.
It is known to use, with the waxes, film-forming polymers which can be dissolved or dispersed in an aqueous medium, as described, in particular, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-2,528,699 and European Patent Application No. EP-A-655,234. However, the presence of waxes leads to poor staying power of the make-up over time, especially with respect to water and rubbing.
An object of the present invention,is thus to provide a mascara composition leading to a make-up effect that has good staying power over time.
The inventors have obtained such a mascara with a composition free of wax and comprising a film-forming polyurethane. The composition, which is easy to apply, coats the eyelashes well. The make-up effect is natural, comfortable and has good staying power over time; the film does not crumble after a day and is easy to remove with water, in particular, warm water.
More specifically, a subject of the invention is a system or product for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, comprising a reservoir containing a composition for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, especially the eyelashes, an applicator member and a removable closure means designed to close the reservoir, wherein the coating composition comprises an aqueous medium and a film-forming polyurethane in the form of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous medium, the composition having a viscosity, measured at 25xc2x0 C., at a shear rate of 200 sxe2x88x921, ranging from 5 Paxc2x7s (50 poises) to 18 Paxc2x7s (180 poises), the composition furthermore being free of wax.
Another subject of the invention is a process for coating, in particular, for making up, keratin fibers, especially the eyelashes, wherein a coating composition, in particular, a make-up composition of the system defined above is applied along the length of the keratin fibers.
Another subject of the invention is the use of a coating composition, in particular, a make-up composition, as defined above, to obtain a coating, in particular, a make-up effect which has good staying power and/or which can be removed with water.
Additional features and advantages of the invention are set forth in the description that follows, and, in part, will be apparent from the description or may be learned from practice of the invention. The advantages of the invention will be realized and attained by the compositions, systems, and processes particularly pointed out in the written description and claims.
Both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description of the invention are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the claimed invention.
In the present patent application, the expression xe2x80x9cwax-free compositionxe2x80x9d means a composition that does not contain any compound solid at room temperature (25xc2x0 C.), and that has a melting point ranging from 45xc2x0 C. to 110xc2x0 C.
The polyurethane used according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from polyester-polyurethanes, acrylic-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, and siliconed-polyurethanes. The polyurethane can preferably be an anionic polyurethane.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyurethane can have a water uptake of less than or equal to 30%, and, in particular, ranging from 0.5% to 15%. The polyester-polyurethanes according to the invention have such water uptake properties. Such polyurethanes make it possible to obtain a make-up product having good staying power over time, in particular, for more than one day, or even two to three days, and good water-resistance. Advantageously, polyurethanes, and, in particular, polyester-polyurethanes, capable of forming a film having a hardness ranging from 40 to 200 seconds, and, better still, from 50 to 170 seconds, can be used.
According to the present application, the expression xe2x80x9cwater uptake of the polyurethanexe2x80x9d means the percentage of water absorbed by the polyurethane after immersion in water at 30xc2x0 C. for 10 minutes. The water uptake is measured for a layer 300 xcexcm thick (before drying) deposited on a plate and then dried for 24 hours at 30xc2x0 C. and at 50% relative humidity; pieces of about 1 cm2 cut from the dry film are weighed (mass measurement M1) and then immersed in water for 10 minutes. After immersion, the piece of film is dried to remove the excess surface water and then weighed (mass measurement M2). The difference M2xe2x88x92M1 corresponds to the amount of water absorbed by the polymer. The water uptake is equal to (M2xe2x88x92M1)/M1)xc3x97100, and is expressed as a percentage by weight of water relative to the weight of polymer.
The hardness of the polymer film is measured on a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30xc2x0 C. and at 50% relative humidity, of a layer 300 xcexcm thick (before drying) of an aqueous dispersion containing 28% solids of the particles of radical-generated polymer. The hardness of the film is measured according to ASTM standard D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
According to a second embodiment of the invention, the polyurethane can have a water uptake of greater than 30%, preferably from 30% to 150% and, better still, from 40% to 100%. The polyether-polyurethanes according to the invention have such water uptake properties. Such polyurethanes make it possible to obtain a make-up product which adheres well to the eyelashes, having good staying power over time and being easy to remove with water, in particular warm water at 35-45xc2x0 C. Advantageously, polyurethanes and, in particular, polyether-polyurethanes, capable of forming a film having a hardness ranging from 10 to 40 seconds, and, better still, from 20 to 35 seconds, can be used.
The polyurethane particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of the composition generally have a size preferably ranging from 10 nm to 200 nm.
Polyester-polyurethanes that can be used are those sold under the names xe2x80x9cAvalure UR-425xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cAvalure UR-430xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cAvalure UR-405xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cAvalure UR-410xe2x80x9d by the company Goodrich, and xe2x80x9cNEOREZ R-989xe2x80x9d by the company Zeneca.
Polyether-polyurethanes that can be used are those sold under the names xe2x80x9cSancure 878xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cAvalure UR-450xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cSancure 861xe2x80x9d by the company Goodrich.
The term xe2x80x9cacrylic-polyurethanesxe2x80x9d means polyurethanes comprising at least one acrylic polymeric chain, or polyurethane/acrylic hybride polymers. Acrylic polyurethanes that can be used are those sold under the names xe2x80x9cUCECOAT DW 5560, xe2x80x9d xe2x80x9cUCECOAT DW 5561, xe2x80x9d xe2x80x9cUCECOAT DW 5160, xe2x80x9d xe2x80x9cUCECOAT DW 5460, xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cUCECOAT DW 5660xe2x80x9d by the company UCB, xe2x80x9cFLEXTHANE 610, xe2x80x9d xe2x80x9cFLEXTHANE 620, xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cFLEXTHANE 630xe2x80x9d by the company Air Products, and xe2x80x9cSANCURE AU-4000xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cSANCURE XPD-2361xe2x80x9d by the company Goodrich.
The polyurethane is present in the composition of the product according to the invention in an amount effective to form a film on the keratin fibers. The polyurethane can be present in the composition of the product according to the invention in a content, by weight of solids, ranging from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, and, better still, from 15% to 35% by weight.
The aqueous medium of the composition can comprise water. It can also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent, such as lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones or C3-C4 aldehydes. The water-miscible solvent is preferably ethanol. The content of water-miscible solvent can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and, better still, from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the composition can have a viscosity ranging from 6 Paxc2x7s (60 poises) to 15 Paxc2x7s (150 poises), and, better still, from 7 Paxc2x7s (70 poises) to 12 Paxc2x7s (120 poises). Such a viscosity allows fast and easy application of the composition, as well as uniform coating over the entire length of the eyelashes. The viscosity is measured at 25xc2x0 C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer fitted with a No. 4 rotor, the measurement being carried out after spinning the rotor for 10 minutes (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the rotor spin speed are observed), at a shear rate of 200 sxe2x88x921.
To give the composition according to the invention the viscosity required for application to keratin fibers, and, in particular, the eyelashes, the composition can comprise a thickener for adjusting the desired viscosity.
Examples of thickeners that can be used according to the invention, include:
cellulose-based thickeners, for example, water-soluble cellulose-based thickeners, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose. Among these thickeners, preferred examples include the gums sold under the name xe2x80x9cCellosize QP 4400 Hxe2x80x9d by the company Amerchol,
guar gum, in particular, those sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the name Jaguar C by the company Meyhall,
the quaternized guar gum sold under the name xe2x80x9cJaguar C-13-Sxe2x80x9d by the company Meyhall,
nonionic guar gums comprising C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. Such guar gums are sold, in particular, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Meyhall, or under the name Galactasol 40H4FD2 by the company Aqualon,
xanthan gum, carob gum, scleroglucan gum, gellan gum, rhamsan gum and karaya gum,
alginates, maltodextrin, starch and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts,
clays, and, in particular, montmorillonites, hectorites and laponites,
crosslinked polyacrylic acids, such as the xe2x80x9cCarbopolxe2x80x9d products from the company Goodrich,
the polyglyceryl (meth)acrylate polymers sold under the names xe2x80x9cHispagelxe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cLubragelxe2x80x9d by the companies Hispano Quimica or Guardian,
polyvinylpyrrolidone,
polyvinyl alcohol,
crosslinked acrylamide polymers and copolymers, such as those sold under the names xe2x80x9cPAS 5161xe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cBozepol Cxe2x80x9d by the company Hoechst, xe2x80x9cSepigel 305xe2x80x9d by the company SEPPIC,
crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers sold under the name xe2x80x9cSalcare SC95xe2x80x9d by the company Allied Colloid, and
associative polymers and, in particular, associative polyurethanes.
In the composition according to the invention, the thickener can be present in an effective amount for the composition to have the viscosity as defined above. The thickener content can range, for example, from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
The composition can also comprise other ingredients usually used in cosmetics. Such ingredients can be chosen, in particular, from plasticizers, coalescence agents, fillers, dyestuffs, such as pigments or dyes, surfactants, preserving agents, oils, cosmetic agents, such as moisturizers and anti-UV agents that are well known in the prior art. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additives and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the make-up product are conserved.
Fillers that can be used, in particular, are the fillers usually used in mascara compositions. It is possible, for example, to use fumed silica, in particular, to obtain a thicker make-up effect on the eyelashes. Fillers particularly preferred for the composition according to the invention are, in particular, starch, such as rice starch, talc and polytetrafluoroethylene; these fillers are highly compatible with the aqueous medium of the composition and are easy to incorporate into the composition. In addition, they allow a smooth, shiny film of make-up to be obtained.
The fillers can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition can also comprise an auxiliary film-forming polymer, to allow the cosmetic and physicochemical properties of the film of make-up to be modified. This auxiliary film-forming polymer can be in dissolved form or in the form of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of the composition.
Examples of auxiliary film-forming polymers include vinyl polymers and, in particular, acrylic polymers, or, alternatively, polyesters, such as polyesters containing a sulphonic group.
The coating composition, in particular, the make-up composition, could be packaged in an application system comprising a reservoir containing the composition. The system could include a number of additional components. For example, the system could include a removable closure for closing the reservoir, preferably in a leaktight manner. The application system could also comprise an applicator member configured to apply the make-up composition to the keratin fibers, and, in particular, to the eyelashes. The applicator member is preferably configured to be loaded with the composition and then used to deposit the composition on the eyelashes. In a preferred embodiment, the applicator member is integral with the closure of the system.
The application system could also comprise a wiper for wiping excess composition from the applicator member. The wiper could be integral with the reservoir and configured to wipe the applicator member upon removal of the applicator member from the reservoir.
The applicator member could be a type of applicator configured to apply a substance to keratin fibers. Preferably, the applicator member could be a mascara brush well known to those skilled in the art. The applicator member preferably comprises bristles arranged radially around a twisted core, such as a metal core. The brush can be of varied shapes and can comprise cutout sections. Mascara brushes are described, for example, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-2,607,373 and European Patent Application Nos. EP-A-611,170, EP-A-811,336, EP-A-811,337 and EP-A-842,620, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
In one embodiment, the application system could comprise a reservoir containing a mascara composition as defined above, in combination with an applicator member. The applicator member could comprise an applicating portion provided at one end of a shaft. The other end of the shaft could be integral with a handle component optionally configured to resealably close the reservoir.
The application system could also comprise an annular wiper fixed into a neck of the reservoir. When the applicator member is placed in the reservoir, the shaft of the applicator member preferably passes through the wiper. During removal of the applicator member from the reservoir, the wiper is configured to wipe the shaft and/or the applicating surface. Advantageously, the wiper has at least one finger and is provided with a central passage orifice that can optionally be flocked. Such a device is described, in particular, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-2,705,876, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples below.
FIG. 1 is a longitudinal cross-sectional view of an embodiment of a mascara application system in accordance with the invention.
With reference to FIG. 1, a mascara application system 1, including an applicator member 2 and a reservoir 3, containing a mascara composition 6 having the composition of Example 1 explained below. The reservoir 3 preferably has a threaded neck 4 and a leak-proof seal 5 on the neck 4. A wiper 7 is preferably positioned in the neck 4. The wiper 7 is held in place by means of a flange 8 which cooperates with a recess 9 in the neck 4. The wiper 7 is made, in a known manner, of a flexible, elastic material.
The applicator member 2 preferably comprises an applicating portion 10 fixed to one end of a shaft 11. Preferably, a handle 12 is integral with another end of the shaft 11 opposite the applicating portion 10. The applicating portion 10 is preferably configured like a mascara brush comprising, in a known manner, bristles distributed radially as a helical strip around a twisted core.
The handle 12 preferably includes threading 12a which cooperates with threading 4a of the neck 4 to form a removable lid for the reservoir 3. Leaktight closure of the reservoir 3 is obtained by screwing the handle 12 onto the neck 4 until the handle 12 contacts the seal 5.